Travel Stories

Feb 02 Fiji:
notes from my journal: feb 2-02

It's a hot, sticky bright day here in Fiji. I get allot of overwhelming feelings here. I feel intense happiness. wired feelings like I am in love and sometimes even sorrow. But its a good sorrow. I want to scream out sometimes, it is really that intense!

Today I have lunch with my friends at the Old Mill Cottage restaurant next to the American embassy in downtown Suva. Many important patrons are there. Carol points out some from Fiji's parliament and other embassy workers. Taxi drivers, in little white cars are swarming. The steady boom of construction is all about. Imagine that. The Embassy is going over all the compound to make it safer.

Carol and I arrive, and then Nalini walks in, as does another guest. I'm in a girls club now. I am part of a community. I feel connected, I like that feeling. We dine on delicious Indian curries and traditional Fijian food. But I am not to stay long, today I travel to an another island off of Suva. I am going to Ovalau and the old city of Levuka. Fiji's 1st capital city.

It's Friday afternoon, most people are heading home to their villages for the weekend. I am the only tourist on the bus yet I feel I belong on this bus, I am human, I am a friend. We share smiles and lots of giggles with the kids. The bus has no windows, its all open so I can drink in the luscious views and get a tiny weenie relief from the intense heat (95). As the bus pulls away the tempo peaks with all the family and friends screaming bye bye!! Moce Moce! Smiles are on EVERY BODIES face, ear to ear smiles. The ones you never see back home on a public bus. A rush comes over me - a wave of emotion, A big wave. The music on the bus is blaring happy Fijian reggae music. I even see some tears from my fellow passengers. I belong here. I feel I can relate even though today I travel solo. We all soon settle in for our 2 hour journey to the Paterson brothers Ferry boat. What a beautiful lush country side. The high mountain peaks surround me. Intense shades of green that I remember from my Windsor Newton watercolor set that sits beside me. I am busily catching up on my Journal. I look through pictures of home and my friends. I feel content.

As we approach the landing I see a spectacular island off the coast. Actually, I see three. I am excited. I love this feeling of adventure. My adrenaline is slightly pumped, just enough to keep me awake and alive in this excruciating heat. But now, it's time to wait. The ferry boat is late. we sit and we sit. Finally an hour later it arrives from Savusavu. I think of the deliriously fun time I had in Savasavu weeks before and my mind drifts away.

All the lorries and busses are the first to get on. Then the passengers. I find my way up to the top deck, and alas we are off. Its a 50 minute trip to Ovalau. I meet 3 locals and we talk for the whole trip. I show them my paintings we talk about Fiji and God. They are missionaries. Apparently about 3/4 of the Island is owned by many churches. For the first time I don't feel like OH NO, who am I talking to here. We sit and talk and they invite me to church on Sunday. (I do attend a catholic service on Sunday with a British and Dutch girl, It was really cool. All the children sit on traditional mats on the floor and the singing is simply Beautiful and kind of funny (..The guitar accompaniment is missing a string!)

By the time I arrive the sun is setting..More colors from my paint box.

When I arrive in Levuka it is dark. I check in to the Royal Hotel built in 1860. (look up its website!) It's like a Steven King novel- less the horror. I rent a cute little single room for $17.50 (about $8 US) I head to the bar for a cold Fiji bitter. mmmmmmmm. Now I meet the real characters: The tourists, the locals..... Fijians and Colonials, its like I'm playing a game of CLUE. (again, less the murders)

There is a huge fish canning facility on the opposite end of town ( Bumble bee tuna ) So many hotel guests also include workers from all over the world, Californians, a New York kosher Jew..(an obnoxious man, who is inspecting the kosher part of the plant and the actual fish! he's such a pain in the Ass, we have hours of entertainment just dodging him and sharing stories about him) and Canadians to name a few. Here I have found my home base. I quickly meet most the crowd and the fun begins!!!! Mike, John, Rob and his Mum, Fin- later Barbara, Bob and my buddy from two weeks earlier Rainier arrive soon after.

We hang by the pool, shower to cool off, shuffle to the lobby, under a fan. Stroll into town, sleep, chat, drink kava, have a coffee break, read. Not necessarily in that order but at one time we all seem to have made it to one of these spots. Its a bit like american baseball...who's on first?

This goes on for about 3 days, Then I decide to head out to the tiny Island of Caqalai for some real rest and to get some more painting for my portfolio under my belt. it's about a 30 minute boat ride ..on a small Ponga like boat, like the ones in Mexico. I see a pod of dolphins!! Its going to be a good day.

Here on "Caqalai" I meet Tayna, Karl, Harland , later Barbara and Oliver. The Island is exactly 1 km around. Karl and I try to walk it a few times a day to get some extra exercise.I paint everyday. I feel good about it. At sunset we all gather to watch it set. Then at 7pm the conch shell is blown and its time for dinner. There is NO power here. We bathe with rain water...The stars are spectacular. For two nights we see phosphoresce in the ocean - one unbearably hot night we all skinny dip. I see the southern cross for the first time. This is what I have been dreaming of. And in Fiji you don't have to look too far.